From the Capital of Arts and Culture to the Capital of Food Mazalika and Artichoke: Alexandria, a Culinary Haven for Food Lovers

Since its founding in ancient times, Alexandria has always been Egypt's eternal capital, adapting its role to suit changing eras and circumstances. For over a millennium, it served as the political hub of the Ptolemaic Empire, which extended its influence across Mediterranean islands and along the Phoenician coast to present-day Syria. However, Alexandria was never just a political center; it consistently shone as a beacon of knowledge, culture, and creativity—a crossroads for writers, artists, and travelers, and a cradle of diverse artistic expressions, from poetry and prose to music and song. 

Renowned for its multilingual essence, Alexandria presented the world with an authentic model of a cosmopolitan city, one whose cultural lexicon and ideas influenced countless civilizations. It became a true cultural capital of the Mediterranean, connecting minds and hearts on both its northern and southern shores. 

Today, while Alexandria's cultural dominance has somewhat diminished in favor of Cairo, the city has embraced a new artistic identity: it is now recognized as Egypt’s "Capital of Food." This title reflects the exquisite flavors and culinary traditions that distinguish Alexandrian cuisine from the rest of the world. The city’s culinary identity is shaped by its diverse communities, including Armenians, Greeks, French, Italians, Germans, Russians, English, and Levantines, as well as Moroccans, Africans, and Egyptians from both the Delta and Upper Egypt. 

Alexandria can proudly be described as a melting pot of regional culinary traditions, blending Arab and Turkish elements with Western spices and techniques. As a lover of the city and its culinary heritage—and a capable home cook when needed—I can attest to Alexandrian cuisine's harmonious mix of coriander, cumin, thyme, garlic, onion, and leek, enhanced by an array of peppers. Over-salting is avoided, making the dishes both flavorful and healthy. Alexandrian recipes often carry unique names, many unfamiliar even to Egyptians from other cities. 

Food or a Latin Dance?

"Mazalika" (or "Mazalayka") might sound like the name of a Latin dance, but for Alexandrians, it denotes a cherished dish rarely found outside private homes or in select restaurants specializing in Afsha¹. 

Despite its simplicity, this dish is celebrated for its rich, hearty flavor. It is quickly prepared by sautéing equal parts of beef or lamb heart, kidney, and liver in hot oil infused with spices carefully curated by Alexandrian chefs—both men and women. The cornerstone of the seasoning is a generous amount of freshly minced garlic blended with ground coriander. The hearts, cut into small, tender pieces, are cooked first, followed by the kidneys, and finally, the liver. Optional additions include slices of sogoq² (local spicy sausage), basturma³ (cured air-dried beef), and halawiyat⁴ (firm white fats prized for their rich flavor and energy content). Just before serving, a dash of cumin and a splash of white vinegar are added, elevating the aroma and signaling the dish is ready to be savored. 

Yellow Lentil Koshary: A Unique Alexandrian Twist:

Another standout is Alexandrian Koshary, which is distinct from Cairo’s iconic street food. Here, white rice is combined with yellow split lentils and is typically paired with grilled fish. Traditionally, Alexandrian Koshary was cooked using vegetable oil, while rice dishes were generally prepared with butter or clarified ghee. This reflects the city's culinary preferences even before modern health trends emerged. 

Max District Fish Casseroles: A Coastal Treasure:

The Max District, a coastal area of Alexandria, is synonymous with seafood—particularly fried squid and fish casseroles. These are often accompanied by Sayadeya rice, known for its characteristic brownish hue achieved by caramelizing onions. Locals refer to the fish casserole as a "fish tagine," and it holds a special charm when prepared by the fishermen's wives in Max. These skilled cooks turn small fish, prawns, and squid—often overlooked by wholesalers—into a feast. The seafood is marinated with tomatoes, onions, and garlic, then baked in clay pots and served with fresh Egyptian flatbread or rice. The dish's authentic flavor is best preserved in this intimate, local preparation; commercial versions seldom capture its soul. 

Raw Seafood Delicacies: A Culinary Adventure Before Sushi: 

Long before sushi captured global attention, Alexandrians embraced the thrill of eating raw seafood. This culinary adventure begins at dawn along the rocky shores, where treasures like crabs, shrimp, and Retza⁵ (sea urchins) await. Using snorkeling gear and slender metal skewers, locals dive to collect their catch. Retza, which clings to the rocks, is carefully pried loose, while small, flavorful shrimp are plucked from crevices as the sun rises. 

Another delicacy involves digging shallow sands with sieves to unearth baladi oysters and Um El-Khuloul⁶ clams. These can be eaten raw with lemon juice or tahini, while other shellfish are grilled or boiled to suit personal preferences. 

Alexandrian Exclusives: 

Certain dishes vanish once you leave Alexandria. Artichoke, for instance, is prepared in various ways: boiled in broth with small cuts of meat, cooked in tomato sauce, or stuffed with minced meat and mushrooms. Children enjoy eating its spiny leaves raw, straight from the plant. 

Other dishes bearing the "Alexandrian" label include spiced falafel, fava beans with tomatoes and garlic, fried liver, and Moussaka, a baked dish of eggplant and minced meat. The famous Fakfakhina⁷—a fruit medley served in a glass—also originates here, alongside inventive additions like apple-flavored hookahs. 

The secret to all these dishes lies in the “soul” of the cook and Alexandria’s age-old tradition of blending spices and techniques. This city is undoubtedly a paradise for food lovers, and it’s no surprise that global food chains often choose Alexandria as their gateway to Egypt and the wider world. 

Footnotes: 

1-Afsha:** Refers to organ meats such as liver, kidneys, spleen, and heart. 

2-Sogoq:** Spicy local sausages. 

 3-Basturma:** Air-dried, cured beef seasoned with fenugreek. 

4-Halawiyat:** Firm white fat found in lamb or beef, known for its creamy texture and flavor. 

5-Retza:** A type of sea urchin often consumed raw. 

6- Um El-Khuloul:** A local clam species found along Egypt’s northern coasts. 

7-Fakfakhina:** A fruit salad served in large glasses, often enjoyed as a dessert.